Ayurvastra: The Colours Behind JAI II

A little look into the medicinal dyes I chose for the JAI II collection, along with their holistic properties.

Sappanwood

Raktaka

Traditional Properties

• Calming for inflammatory skin conditions
• Rich in antioxidant and antimicrobial compounds
• Considered to have hypoallergenic benefits
• In Ayurveda, Raktaka is used to reduce Kapha stagnation and ground Vata energy.

Energetic Associations

• Emotionally opening
• Associated with the heart chakra
• Promotes movement of energy
• Grounding, yet lightly activating
• Clarifying; associated with clearing stagnation and supporting emotional release

Haritaki

Harda | Myrobalan

Traditional Properties

• Antioxidant benefits
• Known for antiviral and antifungal properties
• One of the most important herbs in Ayurveda, sometimes called the ‘King of the Herbs’. Harda is one of the three fruits in Triphala, the OG Ayurvedic herbal blend
• Considered a rasayana (rejuvenative)
• Tridoshic, with balancing properties for all three Ayurvedic dosha constitutions

Energetic Associations

• Grounding, assisting apana vayu, the downward flow of energy
• Sattvic, associated with harmony, longevity and resilience
• Traditionally associated with meditation and reducing tamas, heaviness and lethargy

In Tibetan Buddhism, the Medicine Buddha is often depicted holding Haritaki fruit, symbolising healing and liberation from suffering through the integration of body and mind.

Rich in tradition and symbolism, Haritaki is revered as a medicine for the spirit and associated with awakening through both its grounding and lightening qualities.

Annatto

Traditional Properties

• Rich in carotenoids, responsible for its vivid orange tones.
• Carotenoid compounds have antioxidant properties and protective effects against environmental stressors.

Cultivated in India and across Asia, Annatto is native to South and Central America, where it has been used for centuries as a pigment for body painting, adornment and ritual practices.

Annatto interacts uniquely with each textile fibre, revealing a spectrum of natural hues, from golden yellow to warm amber and deep orange-red.

Energetic and symbolic associations

Orange is associated with Svadhisthana, the sacral chakra, the energy centre of creativity, sensuality and pleasure.

In Vedic astrology, these hues evoke the fiery qualities of Mars: courage, determination and action.

Indigo

Traditional Properties

• Associated with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.
• Traditionally used for its cooling and protective qualities.
• Associated with balancing Pitta, the dosha linked to excessive heat.

Energetic Aassociations

Calming and grounding, indigo invokes stillness, introspection and emotional balance. It is associated with Ajna, the third-eye chakra, activating intuition, inner vision and deeper perception.

To extract indigo's profound blue hue, rather than relying on a simple extraction, an alchemical process of soaking, fermentation and eventual oxidation is required.

Wearing indigo therefore mirrors and supports our own internal processes of alchemy; richness emerging through transformation, inner vision deepening with time.

the unique, UV sensitive ephemeral shade achieved when Indigo and Turmeric meet.

Turmeric

Haridra

Traditional Properties

• Used for centuries in Ayurvedic medicine to support skin health and healing.
• Naturally associated with anti-inflammatory properties and rich in antioxidants.
• Warming and purifying, known as ushna, traditionally associated with stimulating circulation and supporting the body's natural cleansing processes.
• In Ayurveda, turmeric is considered balancing for Kapha and supportive of healthy Pitta.

Energetic Associations

Turmeric carries qualities of vitality, radiance and life force. Sacred in Ayurveda, its golden hue is associated with purification, protection and auspiciousness.

Associated with the Sun, turmeric evokes warmth, clarity and expression.

When brought together, turmeric and indigo support harmony and cohesion, balancing solar qualities with lunar ones, active and receptive energies, outward radiance with inner awareness.